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Terminology

Technical Terminology - Fashion & Textile

Technical terms specific to the sector for developers implementing AI/RAG systems on fashion and textile.

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Atelier

An artisanal workshop where made-to-measure garments or prototypes are crafted. Typical of haute couture and luxury tailoring.

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Pre-production

The phase between design development and the start of industrial production. Includes material development, prototyping and quality testing.

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Cutting Spread Width

The width of fabric available for cutting. Determines the efficiency of pattern placement and fabric consumption.

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Season Benchmark

A comparative analysis of sales performance between equivalent seasons to identify trends and optimise the buy.

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Bill of Materials (BOM)

A complete list of materials needed to produce a garment: fabrics, linings, buttons, zips, labels, packaging. The basis for costing.

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Approval Sample

A garment produced for final validation before production starts. Must be identical to the tech pack specifications.

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Outerwear

A merchandise category comprising jackets, blazers, coats and gilets. Requires more complex construction techniques.

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Article Code

A unique alphanumeric identifier for a product within the company catalogue. Different from SKU: the article code identifies the style, the SKU identifies the specific variant.

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Quality Control (QC)

A systematic process of verifying the conformity of the finished product to specifications. Includes inspections on statistical samples before shipment.

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Counter Sample

A sample produced by the manufacturer to confirm understanding of specifications before production starts. The brand approves it or requests changes.

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Cost of Goods Sold (CoGS)

The direct cost incurred to produce the garments sold: materials, labour, transport. Excludes overheads and marketing expenses.

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Collection Development

The creative and production process from inspiration to presentation: trend research → moodboard → design → development → sample range → runway/showroom.

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Deadstock Fabric

Unused fabric left over from previous productions, purchased from other manufacturers at reduced prices. A sustainability practice used by independent brands.

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Construction Detail

A technical specification of a garment feature: seam type, hem width, lining type, closure positioning.

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Defect Rate (Difettosità)

The percentage of garments not conforming to quality specifications found during inspection. Target rate typically < 1–2%.

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Production Overage

The quantity produced in excess of the order to compensate for defective garments. Usually 3–5% above the confirmed order.

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Composition Label

A mandatory label stating the percentage fibre composition of the garment (e.g. 80% cotton, 20% polyester). Regulated by EU Regulation 1007/2011.

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Care Label

A label with standardised symbols (ISO 3758) indicating how to wash, dry, iron and clean the garment.

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First Sample

The first physical sample produced by the laboratory based on the design and tech pack. The starting point for revisions.

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Fit Model

A model/mannequin used for garment fitting trials during development. The fit model's measurements coincide with the standard measurements of the sample size.

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Full-Package

An agreement with the manufacturer where the latter manages all material sourcing as well as cut-and-sew. Reduces brand workload but decreases supply chain control.

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Returns Management

The process of receiving, inspecting and sorting garments returned by customers or retail points. Critical for e-commerce (fashion return rates: 20–40%).

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Hangtag

A pendant label attached to the garment with string or cord. Shows brand, price, season and product code.

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Inline Inspection

An inspection carried out during the production process (not only on the finished product) to identify and correct defects in progress.

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Interlining

An intermediate material inserted between the outer fabric and the lining to give structure, shape or warmth to the garment. Can be fused (glued) or sew-in.

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Development Lead Time

The time required to develop a new garment from design to approved sample. Typically 4–12 weeks.

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Men's/Women's/Children's Line

Segmentation by demographic target that influences sizing, design, materials and distribution channels.

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Look Book

A photographic catalogue presenting the collection's garments in editorial or lifestyle contexts. A B2B and B2C marketing and sales tool.

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Gross Margin

The difference between the selling price and the cost of goods, expressed as a percentage. In luxury: 65–75%; in fast fashion: 50–60%.

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Mark-Up

A multiplier applied to the purchase cost to determine the retail selling price. Typical fashion mark-up: 2.5× (wholesale) or 5×–6× (retail).

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Luxury Marketplace

Specialised online platforms for selling luxury fashion (e.g. Net-a-Porter, Farfetch). Require high quality and photographic standards for onboarding.